Waarom 'n Geranium geel blare kry


Deur: Nikki Tilley, skrywer van The Bulb-o-licious Garden

Geraniums is een van die gewildste beddegoedplante, meestal vanweë hul droogtebestande aard en hul pragtige, helder, pomponagtige blomme. Wat veroorsaak 'n malvas met geel blare en hoe kan dit reggestel word?

Oorsake van malvas met geel blare

Een van die mees algemene oorsake van vergeling van blare is te veel vog of oorwater. Oor die algemeen natgemaakte plante het die onderste dele van malvas geel blare. Hulle kan ook wateragtige vlekke ontwikkel. As dit die geval is, moet u dadelik ophou water gee en die plante laat droog word. Onthou, malvas is droogtetolerante plante en hulle hou nie van te veel water nie.

Water- of lugtemperatuur wat te koel is, kan ook geraniumgeel blare tot gevolg hê. Geraniums is 'n warm weerplant en hanteer koel weer nie goed nie. Koue snars in die lente of koel weer, veral koel, nat weer, kan malvas met geel blare veroorsaak.

Boonop, as die maliumblare geel as groen word, kan 'n tekort aan voedingstowwe die oorsaak wees. Geraniumplante moet minstens elke derde natmaak of een keer per maand met 'n volledige, wateroplosbare kunsmis (verkieslik een met mikro-voedingstowwe) bemes word. Kunsmis sal nie net geel blare op malvas help voorkom nie, maar dit sal ook die plant help om vinniger groter te word met meer blomme.

Soms is 'n malvas met geel blare te danke aan 'n soort siekte. Verticillium is byvoorbeeld 'n swaminfeksie wat vertraagde groei, verwelking en heldergeel blare kan veroorsaak.

Wat van malvasblare met geel rande? Geraniumblare met geel kante of geelpuntblare op malvas word gewoonlik toegeskryf aan 'n gebrek aan water of uitdroging. Terwyl malvas droogtebestand is, het hulle wel water nodig. In hierdie gevalle kan u die grond aanvoel om vas te stel hoe droog die plante mag wees en daarvolgens nat te maak. Dit kan ook help om die vergeling te verminder.

Soos u kan sien, benodig malvas met geel blare gewoonlik net 'n bietjie TLC om hulle te help herstel. Gee 'n malvas wat dit nodig het, en u sal nie die malvas se blare geel word nie.

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Lees meer oor Geraniums


Wat volgens jou vrot is, kan eintlik roes wees, 'n ernstige malvasprobleem wat behandel moet word sodra dit opgespoor word. Dit word gereeld gesien op malviumplante wat in kweekhuise grootgemaak word as gevolg van die hoë humiditeit en nabyheid van ander plante.

Geraniumroes verskyn die eerste keer onder blare as klein geel sirkeltjies. Dit verdonker dan tot 'n roesbruin kleur, en die blare begin afval. U malvaplante sal waarskynlik nie roes oorleef nie. Voorkoming is die belangrikste, dus voordat u malvasplante koop, moet u die blare se bokant en onderkant nagaan. As u iets verkeerds sien, moet u die plant nie koop nie.

As die roes later ontwikkel, verwyder die blare dadelik. Dan kan u die plant met 'n swamdoder behandel, wat die siekte moet uitskakel. As 'n plant swaar besmet is, moet dit moontlik vernietig word om nabygeleë plante teen dieselfde probleem te beskerm.


Oplossing van Geraniumprobleme

Hoe om hierdie probleme te gebruik
Die grafiek is georganiseer om u 'n vinnige en vuil opsomming te gee van die moontlike simptome wat u kan ervaar. Die probleemoorsake waarvoor ons volledige lêers het, sal aan die lêers gekoppel word. Die oorsake sonder 'n skakel het 'n paragraaf onder die tabel wat u help om daardie spesifieke probleem op te los.

Oplossing van Geraniumprobleme
Simptoom Waarskynlike oorsaak
Klein gaatjies in onoopgemaakte ogies Geranium-knopwurm
Geen bloeisels nie Oorvoeding Oormatige hitte
Geen bloeisels binnenshuis nie Swak omgewing
Onderblare het geel rande Benodig kunsmis
Blare misvormd Myte
Blare word rooierig Nagte te koud
Skraal plantgroei Lae lig
Knoppies droog op Hoë humiditeit of oorwater
Bleek of geel kolle Blare verdraai Plantluise
Plant groei swak Witluis
Plant laat blare geel word Witvlieg
Blaarvlekke van verskillende groottes Blare van wilde stingels vrot Blaarvlek of vrot, 'n swamsiekte
Blare geplak of bedek met wit Skimmel, swamsiekte
Blare word geel Wortelvrot, bakteriese siekte

Klein gaatjies in ongeopende knoppies seine Geraniumknopwurm
Die maliumknopwurm, ook bekend as die tabakknopwurm, is 'n ruspe wat in ongeopende knoppies tonnel en dit van binne na buite eet. As dit dan oopgaan, is die blomblare deurtrek van gate. Om die verspreiding van die wurms in gesonde ogies te versprei, moet u die ogies wat klein gaatjies en nabygeleë bruin vlekke het, verwyder. Kies enige sigbare wurms wat groen, bruin, rooi of swart kan wees, afhangende van die kleur van hul gasheerblom. Hulle het twee bleek strepe wat parallel met mekaar loop, die lengte van hul lywe.
Spuit Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) op swaar knopwurmbesmettings op die knopoppervlaktes waar knopwurms voed. Hulle sal die bakterieë inneem, wat slegs plae van ruspes beïnvloed, siek word, ophou eet en binne enkele dae sterf. Bedek die grond met landskapweefsel vir chroniese knopwurmprobleme om te keer dat die larwes (die wurms) die grond binnedring waar hulle oorwinter en motte word. Plant geraniumsaailinge in gate wat deur die stof gesny word. Klimop-malvas is minder vatbaar as ander soorte malvas.

Geen bloeisels as gevolg van oorvoeding of oormatige hitte nie
Oorvoeding stimuleer welige plantegroei, maar geen blomme op malvas nie. Maak die plante mildelik nat sodat die grond twee of drie dae agtereenvolgens deeglik geweek word sodat die oortollige voedingstowwe verdun word en verby die malvaswortels diep in die grond ingedra word. Moenie bemes vir die res van die groeiseisoen nie.
Terwyl soorte malvas op die son floreer en hoor, stop klimop- en koninklike soorte malvas om te blom wanneer hulle blootgestel word aan die buitengewone hoë temperature wat tipies is vir warm sonnige middae in warm klimaat. Probeer om hulle te lokaliseer waar hulle in die middag 'n bietjie skaduwee sal kry. Geen bloeisels binnenshuis nie weens swak omgewing
Daar is drie redes waarom malvas in die winter huiwerig kan wees om bloeisels binne te doen: 1). te veel stikstof, 2). te min lig, 3). te min verskil tussen dag- en nagtemperatuur. Hou op om die plante 'n rukkie te voed en vind 'n beter plek daarvoor. Dit mag nodig wees om dit onder ligte te plaas om bloei in die winter aan te moedig.

Laer blare het geel rande seine Lae Voeding
As hul onderste blare geel kante het, het malvas waarskynlik voedsel nodig. Bespuit hul blare met vloeibare kunsmis, maar moenie die verdunning op die houer oorskry nie. Voer dit elke twee weke totdat die simptome verdwyn.

Blare word rooierig as die nagte te koud is
Blare van malvas wat vroeg in die lente buite geplaas word, kan rooi word as die plante eers geplant word of buite gesit word. Dit word veroorsaak deur 'n skielike kouekoors, gewoonlik snags. Stel u plante uit buite totdat die temperatuur betroubaar bo 40 ° F bly.

Steil plantgroei is te wyte aan lae lig
Geraniums word min as gevolg van 'n aantal omgewingsprobleme. Onvoldoende lig is 'n algemene oorsaak. As u lang stingels nie terugknyp nie, oormatige voeding en natmaak en oorbevolking, sal malvas ook beenagtig lyk en nie floreer nie.

Knoppe droog op, val af As gevolg van hoë vogtigheid, oorwater
Soms, veral op ingemaakte malvas, droog die onopgemaakte ogies op en val af voordat dit oopgaan. Dit kan wees omdat hulle te klam is. Probeer 'n droër klimaat vir hulle bied. Wag nog 'n bietjie tussen water, veral as dit in houers is.

Wortelvrot word veroorsaak deur swamme wat in die grond woon. Hierdie rotte val gewoonlik malvasstamme op of naby die grondvlak aan. Plantblare word geel, verwelk en sterf. Wortelstelsels verrot, wat veroorsaak dat die malvas oorval. Verwyder en gooi besmette plante weg, of sny aangetaste plantdele met 'n skoon, skerp mes of skeermeslem. Ontsmet gereedskap na gebruik. Hou die tuin skoon van ou plantreste en hou die deklaag weg van die basis van die stam. Vir langtermynvoorkoming, maak swaar grond ligter met 'n mengsel van perliet, vermikuliet of turfmos om die dreinering daarvan te verbeter. Vermy oorwater. Ruimteplante verder uitmekaar om verdringing te voorkom. Gebruik steriele kommersiële grondlose potmengsels in houers.

Het u 'n tuinvraag? Vra vir Nancy


Steggies

Kenmerke - Kweekmedia

Gewasse in boom-gebaseerde substrate benodig dalk ekstra swael in hul dieet.

Fig. 1: Swaeltekort is waargeneem by baie spesies wat in bas en houtbasis ondergrond verbou word.

Produsente hou meestal nie daarvan om die vrugbaarheidsprogramme wat hulle al jare gebruik, te verander nie. Sommige nuwe gewasse benodig 'n bietjie aanpassing van die dosering, kunsmisformulerings, frekwensie van vrugbaarheid, ens., Maar meestal is die vrugbaarheidsvereistes (plus die optimale pH-reekse van die substraat) redelik goed geskakel. Dan kom houtvesel in groeiende media en die spel verander 'n bietjie!

Soos die afgelope dekade deur produsente en navorsers opgemerk is, is die mees algemene en opvallende veranderinge in kulturele praktyke by die oorskakeling na 'n mengsel wat houtprodukte bevat, 1) besproeiingsbestuur, 2) pH-bestuur en 3) vrugbaarheid. Nou, nie alle produsente sien veranderinge of kom voor uitdagings in al hierdie gebiede nie, maar baie sien wel. Nie op daardie lys is groen houttoksisiteit (fitotoksisiteit) wat voorkom in vars geoesde / verwerkte denneboom-substraat (PTS-hamermaalproduk). Ten spyte van 'n paar veranderinge in die groeipraktyke, probeer produsente vinnig om hout in hul mengsels aan te neem as gevolg van die baie positiewe aspekte daarvan. Een 'neiging' wat ons in Noord-Amerika en sommige in Europa sien, is die toename in persentasies houtprodukte in verskillende kweekhuise. Op die oomblik is die "tipiese" en mees algemene houtaanpassingsyfer tussen 20 en 40% (volgens volume). Bo hierdie drempel kan die veranderinge in groeipraktyke wesenlik verander. Vir die doel van hierdie artikel wil ons fokus op een voedingsuitdaging wat ons vanjaar in 'n paar groeiende bedrywighede gesien het: plante wat nie swael het nie.

Gelukkig is daar 'n ordentlike hoeveelheid navorsingsdata oor die kwessies en moontlike oplossings vir die kweek van kweekhuisgewasse in hoë persentasie houtmateriale. Soos ons en ander al voorheen geskryf het, het die aanvanklike navorsing oor houtsubstrate in die VSA in 2004 begin en destyds was die grootste fokus daarop om uit te vind of en hoe ons gewasse in 100% vervaardigde hout kan verbou. Alhoewel al die navorsing van 2004-2015 gefokus het op hamergemaalde PTS-materiale, kan hierdie proewe en data steeds van toepassing wees op die kommersiële houtprodukte wat vandag met verskillende vervaardigingstoerusting en -prosesse vervaardig word.

Figuur 2: Verskeie spesies, insluitend malvas, goudsbloem, poinsettia en mammas, is in eksperimentele bas- en houtgebaseerde substraatproewe gekweek om swaeltekorte te dokumenteer en die soorte en dosisse van swaeltoediening te bepaal.

Aangesien dit spesifiek betrekking het op swaelvoeding in kweekhuisgewasse, weet ons nie alles oor wanneer, hoe, tot watter mate en met watter presiese persentasies houttekort voorkom nie, maar ons weet wel dat gewasse verbou word in substrate met 'n hoë persentasie houtprodukte kan swawelverwante groeitekorte vertoon.

Swael is een van die belangrikste voedingstowwe wat nodig is vir die groei van plante, maar teen 'n laer konsentrasie in vergelyking met baie ander voedingstowwe. Swael kom dikwels inherent voor in veen en ander organiese substrate op hoog genoeg vlakke om plante met al die benodigdhede te voorsien met geen / lae aanvulling via die vrugbaarheidsprogram. Swaeltekort simptome kan insluit chlorose en nekrose van die jongste blare, taklose wortels, vermindering in chlorofilinhoud (Fig. 1), verminderde huidgeleiding, transpirasie en fotosintese, sowel as algehele verminderde plantgroei.

In 2004-2005, toe die vroeë werk aan houtsoorte gedoen is, is aanvanklik gedink dat stikstof die enigste (of ten minste die belangrikste) beperkende voedingstof is wat die groei van plante beïnvloed en die vergeling van blare en vertraagde groei veroorsaak. Dit is welbekend dat stikstof deur mikrobes geïmmobiliseer (vasgebind word) in die afbreek van organiese substrate en dat die beskikbare stikstof dus beperk kan word (en ernstige vergeling en verdwerging kan veroorsaak) as vars hout in die substraat is. Danksy baie jare se vorige navorsing oor swawelvoeding van kwekerygewasse in onderdele van dennebas, was dr. Robert Wright van Virginia Tech van groot belang om voor te stel en later te ontdek dat swael ook 'n beperkende faktor is in plante wat in 100% dennehout gekweek word. Gedurende die volgende dekade is proewe begin met verskeie gewasse, insluitend malvas, goudsbloem, poinsettia en moeders om hul reaksie op verskillende behandelings met swaelvoeding, swaeltipes en wysigingsyfers te evalueer (Fig. 2). Swaweltekorte in houtgebaseerde ondergrond kan vererger word deur die inherente lae konsentrasies van swael in dennehout (ook bas) en ook deur die mikrobiese immobilisasie van swael (en fosfor) wat wel in organiese substrate voorkom, net in 'n mindere mate as stikstof .

Figuur 3: Goudsbloem skiet droë gewigte van plante wat gekweek word in 'n veenlaagbestryding (geen swael) en 100% PTS met verskillende swaelbronne

Een van die proewe wat uitgevoer is, het die groei van goudsbloeme wat in 'n peatliet-substraat (80:20 turfperliet) gegroei het, en in 100% PTS met verskillende toepassings van swael geëvalueer. Die behandelings het geen swael bygevoeg nie, 1 pond / yard3 kalsiumsulfaat (gips), 2 pond / yard3 kalsiumsulfaat en 1,5 pond / yard3 elementêre swael, ystersulfaat, magnesiumsulfaat en Micromax. Plante is vier weke lank met 200 dpm stikstof gekweek en aan die einde vir droë gewigte geoes.

Gegewens uit hierdie eksperiment het getoon dat plante wat in 100% PTS gekweek is, ongeveer 40% kleiner was as die kontroleplante wat in veenlaag gekweek is. Met die toevoeging van enige swaelbron was die plantgroei egter dieselfde in alle PTS-behandelings (Fig. 3 en 4). Hierdie data is herhaal en verskeie kere waargeneem met verskillende spesies. Met verskillende swaweltipes is daar verskillende koste, vrystellingssnelhede, lang lewensduur, pH-aanpassings / veranderinge van die substraat, ens. Kalsiumsulfaat is gekies om die beste aanbod van swael te wees vanweë die lae koste, beskikbaarheid, beskikbare deeltjiegroottes en neutrale (geen) verandering tot substraat pH.

Fig. 4: Goudsbloemlote (boonste ry) en wortels (onderste ry) wanneer hulle in 100% PTS gekweek word met verskillende swaelaanvullings Figuur 5: Goudsblomme wat in veenlaag (PL) gekweek word sonder swael wat bygevoeg is, toon geen tekortsimptome nie, vergeleke met plante in 100% denneboom-substraat (PTS A). Die toevoeging van 1,5 lbs / yd3 kalsiumsulfaat tot 100% PTS (CONT) verminder die tekort en verbeter die groei van goudsbloem (B) en malvas (C) gelyk aan dié van plante wat in veenvlies gekweek word.

Verdere proewe het kalsiumsulfaathoeveelhede ondersoek, en daar is vasgestel dat 1,5 pond / yard3 voldoende was om swaeltekorte in die geteste gewasse te voorkom.

In daaropvolgende proewe is data en visuele waarnemings versamel om te suggereer (ondersteun die hipotese en ander gepubliseerde verslae) dat 100% dennebasonderwerpe ook inherent laag in swael kan wees en sodoende kan lei tot swaeltekorte kruidagtige kweekhuisgewasse wanneer dit in 100% gekweek word. In ander proewe, ook met goudsbloem en malvas, kan die groeiverlaging gesien word in plante wat in 100% PTS gekweek word in vergelyking met plante in veenlaag (Fig. 5). Die toevoeging van 1,5 pond / yard3 kalsiumsulfaat verbeter die groei gelyk aan dié in tradisionele turfsubstrate. Daar moet op gelet word dat die toevoer van stikstof ook voldoende moet wees (nie beperkend nie), benewens die toevoer van swael aan gewasse.

Daar word aanbeveel dat produsente wat verkies om te meng in mengsels met hoër (waarskynlik meer as 50%) hout, waaksaam moet wees om hul gewasse te monitor vir voedingsbehoeftes en onthou dat swael belangrik is! Swael (gips) by substrate kan 'n proaktiewe manier wees om swaeltekorte te voorkom, maar swaeltoediening tydens gewasproduksie kan ook die bestaande swaelbehoeftes regstel. Navorsing aan die Noord-Carolina State University ondersoek steeds die voedingsbehoeftes, drempels en bestuurstrategieë vir gewasse wat in houtsubstrate verbou word.


Waarom is my maliumblare so klein en hoe kan ek dit regmaak?

Vir blommeliefhebbers daar buite is Geranium werklik 'n hemel gestuur. Met sy lewendige en weelderige blomme kan dit beslis enige tuin laat soek om aan te trek. U kan ook kies om dit binnenshuis te kweek en kleure by u slaapkamer of tuiskantoor te voeg.

Ondanks die feit dat malvas bekend is vir sy kleurvolle blomme, is die blare net so belangrik. As u dus waarneem dat u malvium kleiner blare begin produseer, moet u geen tyd mors nie en dadelik optree.

As u Geranium-plant kleiner blare begin groei het, kan dit wees omdat witluise, gebrek aan kunsmis, oormatige of gebrek aan watertoevoer, onvoldoende blootstelling aan sonlig of ander malvasiektes wat ons gaan dek. Kyk hieronder na die beskrywe simptome wat pas by u malvas om kleiner blare te laat groei en hoe u dit kan herstel.

Hier is 'n paar moontlike faktore wat die produksie van klein malvasblare veroorsaak, asook die maniere om dit op te los.

Waarom is my Geranium-blare so klein en hoe kan ek dit regmaak?

Oorsake van klein malvasblare

  1. Witluise

Waarop om op te let

Verwronge blare, klein plantjie, geel blare

Witluise word gewoonlik gekenmerk as klein insekte met sagte lyf, omring deur syagtige, wit bedekkings wat gewoonlik aan plantstingels en blaarknope smul.

As dit besmet is, sal u malvasblare geel word en uiteindelik daal. Witluise verdraai ook nuwe knoppies wat daartoe lei dat u malvas kleiner blare produseer as normaal.

U kan u eie organiese plantsproei teen witluise skep deur 'n pasta te maak van knoffelhuisies, 'n klein uiebol en 'n teelepel rooipeper. Meng die pasta met water.

Syg die mengsel na 'n uur en voeg 'n bietjie seep by. Plaas dit in 'n spuitbottel en plaas dit op u malvasblare.

Gebrek aan kunsmis

Waarop om op te let

Klein blare met geel rande

As u agterkom dat u malvasblare geel word en die blare dun is, beteken dit eenvoudig dat u plant nie voldoende voeding het nie.

Om dit reg te stel, voer u plante met voorgeskrewe hoeveelhede vloeibare kunsmis deur direk op die blare te spuit.

Doen dit elke twee weke gereeld totdat die manifestasies verdwyn en u plant begin groei tot gemiddelde blare.

Oormatige of gebrek aan watertoevoer

Waarop om op te let

Gedroogde / dun blare, pap grond

Veral as die humiditeitsvlak hoog is, is dit noodsaaklik dat u die geraniumplante voldoende water voorsien, anders kan dit nie genoeg energie oplewer wat noodsaaklik is om die voedingstowwe wat nodig is om gesond te produseer nie. , groot blare.

Maak seker dat u die grond nie te droog laat nie, maar wees versigtig om u plant nie te veel water te gee nie. Hou die grond klam en water as dit nodig geag word.
Onvoldoende blootstelling aan sonlig

Waarop om op te let

Klein blare, swak plant, geel blare

Nog 'n rede waarom u malvasplant nie groter blare produseer nie, is dat dit nie voldoende sonlig kry nie. Geranium is bekend as 'n sonliefhebbende plant wat elke dag ongeveer 6 uur volle sonblootstelling benodig.

As dit verwaarloos word, kan dit veroorsaak dat u plant nie net kleiner en ongesonde blare produseer nie, maar ook tot beenagtige stingels. Daar is ook 'n groot moontlikheid dat u hele plant nie langer sal floreer as wat u verwag nie.

Ander groeiende probleme en siektes

Wat wonderlik is met die kweek van malvas, is dat dit baie gehard is en dus perfek is vir beginners, maar dit maak hulle nie honderd persent bestand teen peste en siektes nie.

Trouens, hieronder is enkele van die groeiende probleme en siektes wat gewoonlik malvas prooi.

Lees die volgende, sodat u ten volle toegerus sal wees met kennis oor hoe u hierdie soort groeiende probleme kan hanteer.

Bakteriese roes kan moeilik wees om op te spoor, aangesien die simptome op verskillende maniere kan voorkom.

Dit kan byvoorbeeld wigvormig lyk waarvan die breër oppervlakte gewoonlik langs die blaarrand gesien word, terwyl die nouer deel naby die blaaraar is.

Alternatiewelik kan bakteriese roes ook lyk soos 'n sirkelvormige of onreëlmatige vorm wat deurweek is, wat gewoonlik bruin van kleur is.

Hierdie bakteriese siekte versprei vinnig van een blaar na 'n ander en val hoofsaaklik die vaatstelsel van die plant via die are en blaarsteel.

Sodra dit besmet is, sal die hele plant 'n groter kans hê om te verlep en uiteindelik te sterf. Om te verhoed dat bakteriële roes versprei, moet u die besmette plante dadelik uitskakel en die tuingereedskap wat u besmette malvas gebruik het, ontsmet, aangesien dit steeds bakteriese residue kan bevat.
Agterbeen

Agterbeen is 'n swamsiekte wat hoofsaaklik veroorsaak word deur Phoma lingam.

Hierdie siekte kan voorkom in enige stadium van die plant se ontwikkeling, maar begin gewoonlik vanaf die saailinge, ongeveer drie weke na die oorplanting.

Alhoewel hierdie siekte gewoonlik voorkom op koolgewasse soos kool en broccoli, sowel as in aartappels, kan dit ook maliumblare beïnvloed as gevolg van stingels wat gebruik word om die plant te vermeerder.

Sodra u die agterbeen in u malvas manifesteer, is dit belangrik dat u dadelik van die stamknipsels ontslae raak.

Om te voorkom dat hierdie siekte u plant oorneem, is die nodige sanitasie van tuingereedskap nodig, en vermy dat u malvas oorwater word, aangesien 'n vogtige omgewing 'n groot bydrae kan lewer tot hierdie swamsiekte.
Knopwurm

As u agterkom dat die onoopgemaakte knoppies van u malvas klein gaatjies het, kan dit 'n teken wees van die pluimwurmbesmetting.

Hierdie knopwurms is ruspes, waarvan die kleure kan wissel na gelang van hul gasheerblom en twee vervaagde lyne het wat parallel met hul lyf loop, wat spesifiek op 'n maliumplant se onoopgemaakte knoppe toeslaan en van binne af voed en die klein gaatjies veroorsaak.

Sodra u die ongeopende knoppe van u plant sien wat die tekens van besmetting van knoppies voorkom, moet u dit dadelik uitsoek sowel as die sigbare knopwurms wat aan u plant smul. In gevalle waar swaar besmetting voorkom, kan u 'n bespuiting kies.
Blare word rooi

Afgesien van plae, bakterieë en swamme, kan onbehoorlike lae temperature ook die groei en kwaliteit van u malvas nadelig beïnvloed.

Veral as u u plant in die winter of te vroeg in die lente buite laat, reageer dit nie goed op die koue nagwind nie. As gevolg hiervan word die blare van die malvas rooi.

Om te verhoed dat dit in die toekoms gebeur, moet u wag totdat die planttemperatuur gunstig is, ideaal by 40 ° F, voordat u dit buite beweeg.
Alternaria blaarvlek

Sodra die besmetting met Alternaria-blaarvlek begin, sien u aanvanklik donker sirkelvormige kolle op die oppervlak van die besmette blare, gewoonlik ¼ tot ½ duim in deursnee.

Namate die swamsiekte versprei, kan hierdie kolle in kleur verander van donker na grys of bruin plus geel ringe om die kante. 'N Toediening van swamdoder kan help om die verspreiding van die siekte te verlig.

Wenke oor die koring van malvas

Met 'n so wonderlike plant, sal u regtig meer tyd moet bestee om te weet hoe u 'n malvaplant goed kan versorg.

Of u u malvas binnenshuis of buite verbou, hier is 'n paar belangrike wenke waarna u kennis wil neem om seker te maak dat u 'n goeie groeiende toestand vir u plant bied.

U wil nie u plant doodmaak as gevolg van oorwater nie, daarom is dit belangrik dat u die grond laat droog word, maar nie te veel nie, voordat u dit weer natmaak.

Neem veral gedurende die winter die tyd om eers die vogtigheid van die grond te ondersoek deur 'n vogmeter te gebruik.

As u nie het nie, kan u die vinger 1 diep in die grond steek en kyk of dit droog genoeg is om weer water te kry.

Vermy boonop water, aangesien dit tot plae of siektes kan lei.
Dien kunsmis toe gedurende die groeiseisoen

As u malvas op die mees aktiewe stadium is, maak dit 'n geleentheid om hulle met kunsmis te voed.

Die toediening van kunsmis gedurende die maande wat malvas aktief groei, sal die plant aanmoedig om sterker te groei.

U kan verkieslik wateroplosbare kunsmis gebruik en dit elke twee weke toedien, maar wees versigtig om nie kunsmis in die winter te gebruik nie.

    Maak jou malvas dood

    Om die groei van u malvas ten volle te maksimeer, kan u begin deur die plant dood te koppel.

    Dit beteken dat u die ouer blomme verwyder om plek te maak vir die nuwe blomme.

    Maar om dit effektief te doen, moet u nie net die boonste blomme verwyder nie, maar dat u ook die sny van die onderkant van die stam moet maak wat die ouer blomme bevat.

    Terwyl u besig is, kan u ook hierdie tyd neem om die geel blare van die plant af te haal.

    Hulle word gewoonlik naby die basis van die plant aangetref, want dit is die deel wat minder lig kry.
    Spuit op sommige plaagdoders

    Beskerm u malvas teen ongewenste plae en insekte, veral wurms en ruspes, deur plaagdoders te bespuit.

    Gebruik verkieslik een wat Bacillus Thuricide bevat. Hierdie bakterieë, wanneer dit deur ruspes en wurms ingeneem word, val hul spysverteringstelsel aggressief aan wat uiteindelik hul dood veroorsaak.

    Moenie bekommerd wees nie, want hierdie soort plaagdoder word as veilig beskou vir troeteldiere en mense.

Voordele van malvasblare

Behalwe dat u tuin of u binnekant nog helderder en meer kleurvol is as ooit tevore, kan geranium ook 'n goeie keuse wees vir medisinale hulpbronne.

In wese kan u olie van malvasblare maak, en hierdie organiese olies bevat antibakteriese, anti-inflammatoriese, antioksidante, samentrekkende en antimikrobiese eienskappe wat sommige toestande help verlig.

Hier is 'n paar siektes en toestande waarin uittreksel van geraniumblare van groot hulp kan wees.

  • Neurodegeneratiewe siekte
  • Suikersiekte
  • Wonde en allergieë
  • Menopouse en perimenopauze
  • Infeksie
  • Nasale vestibulitis
  • Swelling

Daarbenewens kan malvasblare ook 'n goeie kruietee wees. U kan vars of gedroogde malvasblare gebruik. Giet net warm water en laat die blaar versprei. Daarna kan u die blare eenvoudig uittrek en u tee drink.


103 kommentaar

Hallo, my rooi malvas die afgelope maand het pienk en kleiner geword. Die blare is bont geel / groen eerder as gewone groen en gekreukel. Hulle is geleë op 'n oostelike balkon wat so skaduwee het. In Melbourne in Australië was die somer sag. In potte wat self natmaak en onlangse bemesting (mis en vloeibare seewier). Dit gaan goed met die afgelope twee jaar, behalwe as dit moontlik is.

Hallo
Dit klink asof hulle 'n bietjie sukkel. Gereelde voeding is baie belangrik as u die hele jaar deur aktief wil groei, maar u moet tyd gee om te reageer op enige kunsmis wat u gegee het. Probeer om een ​​keer per maand 'n roetine te voer sodat hulle voortdurend voorsien.
Ook Pelargoniums doen die beste met 4-6 uur sonlig per dag, dus oorweeg dit om hulle 'n helderder plek te gee.
Hoop dit help
Sue

Hallo. Ek het pas 'n groot pot malvas ingebring om oorwinter te word in 'n koel stoep. Daar is elke dag 6 - 8 groot, groot ruspe-poe op die rak onder die plant. Hulle is gewoonlik donkerbruin, af en toe pienk, en dit wys dat hulle die blomme en die blare wat nou taamlik lyk, probeer bestudeer het. Die saak is dat ek elke dag die plante deeglik ondersoek (insluitend die onderkant van die blare) en dat ek geen bewyse van ruspes of iets anders sien nie! Kan daar iets wees wat snags net uitkom en bedags in die grond skuil?

Hallo
Ruspes is baie goed om hulself te kamoefleer. Maak seker dat u die hele stoep en net die plant self nagaan. As dit nodig is, kan 'n sistemiese plaagdoder help om te voorkom dat dit in getalle toeneem, maar ek wil voorstel dat u die skuldiges regtig deeglik soek. (Dit is die moeite werd om ook die pot op te lig as iemand daar onder skuil!).
Alles van die beste
Sue

Kan u my vertel wat dit op my Pelargonium is, asseblief ... Baie vertraagde groei op plekke. Ek is vertel van Greening Virus, maar kon niks vind nie.

Dit is regtig onmoontlik om te vertel sonder meer inligting wat ek bang is. Belemmering van groei kan deur soveel verskillende faktore veroorsaak word!

Aanvanklik het ek geraniums onder roes gehad, want hulle het die kenmerkende bruin kolle onder en geel bo-op. Dit was in Augustus, ek het 'n swamdoder gebruik en al die aangetaste blare afgehaal. Nuwe blare het weer gegroei, maar nou is ek geneig om te dink dat hulle deur insekte aangeval word ... moontlik wit vlieg. (Ek het foto's) Die blare lyk onooglik, maar ek hoop om dit te oorwinter - ek laat dit gewoonlik op 'n rypvrye plek buite, my vraag is of hierdie insekte afsterf as dit koud word, of sou u 'n insekdoder aanbeveel? TIA

Ongelukkig sal u 'n insekdoder moet gebruik. As u dink dat hulle aan 'n plaag ly, sal ek aanraai om dit nie in die kas te bring voordat u seker is dat dit weer skoon is nie. Andersins sal u die probleem nog verder versprei.
Alles van die beste
Sue

Ek het pas my Pelargoniums opgegrawe tot oorwinter, soos ek dit al 'n aantal jare gedoen het. Verskeie het onlangs nie so goed gevaar nie en ek het groot wit groeisels regoor die wortels gevind. In die deel van die grens wat die ergste geraak is, was daar wit knoppe aan die wortels. Is dit swam? Wat moet ek doen? Ek het 'n paar foto's geneem indien dit van nut is.

Hallo
Dit is baie moeilik om te sê, aangesien daar soveel verskillende swamme in die grond voorkom. As u Pelargoniums in elk geval nie goed lyk nie, sou ek voorstel dat u in hierdie stadium steggies neem. Sodra die steggies gewortel is, kan u die ouerplante gooi. Soms is dit beter om van vooraf te begin, want Pelargoniums sal na 'n paar jaar in elk geval 'n bietjie taai lyk.
Alles van die beste
Sue

Ek het pas my malvas na binne gebring omdat dit koud word. Hulle het verlede jaar goed gevaar binne en ek hoop dat hulle hierdie jaar dieselfde sal doen. Maar ek het opgemerk dat een van my vier plante hierdie klein klein foutjies in die vuil weef. Hulle lyk baie klein duisendpote (duisendpote?). Hulle is baie (sidder) grof. Ek het my ander drie plante ondersoek en dit lyk nie of hierdie klein wurmtjies daarin is nie. HELP! Wat is dit en wat doen ek daaraan ??

Hallo
Ek sal geneig wees om hierdie plant weer te verpak. Probeer om bestaande grond saggies van die wortels af te skud en voorsien vars, skoon kompos. Dit kan 'n rukkie sukkel, gee dit tyd om in sy nuwe pot te gaan sit. Ek sal ook voorstel dat u dit van die ander plante afsonder vir alle ingeval. Dit sal help om te verhoed dat hulle na die ander plante versprei as u dit tydens die verpakking mis.
Hoop dit help
Sue

2 uit 10 van my malvasblare skyn skielik na 'n ligter groen kleur te vervaag as die ander malvas. Blomme lyk voorlopig ok.

Hallo
The oldest leaves will gradually deteriorate as they age. if you are noticing this from the younger leaves then you may need to give your plants a feed.
All the best
Sue

My geraniums have some sort of insect damage… evidenced by little holes in the bud…and the blossom within eaten… previous years I noticed some type of tiny grub…what is it and how do I treat for this insect

Hallo. It could be Geranium Sawfly. The little grubs will nibble holes in the foliage and buds. Check the plants over regularly and remove any grubs that you see. If the problem is intolerable then you can use a pesticide to kill them. Spray the plants at dusk for the best results. However, if your plants are in flower then this route should be avoided if possible as the pesticide will also harm bees and other insects which may be visiting your plants.
All the best
Sue

Interesting question…and reply. I have had the same problem both this year and also last couple of years – tiny holes in the buds I’ve come to the conclusion that it might be a geranium budworm. I noticed on another forum that someone else had posted the same problem and the reply was ‘are you in the USA because this isn’t a problem in the UK’ to which the original questioner said ‘I’m in Cambridgeshire’! I’m on Merseyside …but the damage doesn’t seen consistent with sawfly so although I’m no expert I’m assuming we’ve imported Geranium Budworm from the USA along with chlorinated chicken! From US gardening help videos it seems to be a case of keeping an eye open and picking off the caterpillars when they emerge to try to break the lifecycle.

My geranium looked like a mouse had torn the leaves and flowers. I cut the plants back and netted the whole pot. It has occured again with the stems torn off.

Something is eating holes into the leaves of my geraniums and begonias. I’ve inspected them thoroughly and know it is not Caterpillars. I did however find bugs but I’m not sure what they are. I have a photo I can send. Whatever it is has attacked with a vengeance and destruction is unbelievable. One evening they were great and the next thing they were not. Can you please help? Thank you very much!!

Hello! I’ve sent you a private email so that you can send me your photo. It’s always a lot easier to identify pests with an image.
All the best
Sue

I have had a lovely shocking pink zonal geranium out in the garden for about 3 years. Recently I have noticed browny red spots on the underside of the leaves and blemishes on the top. No signs of green or black fly. The leaves are dying. What do you think it is? I have taken a couple of photos but am unsure how to send them to you. Many thanks.

Hallo. It’s always hard to tell without a picture, but my best guess from your description would be Pelargonium Rust, which is a fungal infection. Remove the affected foliage and then spray with a fungicide and this should help to clear it. Like most fungal infections, it is present mainly during cool, wet and breezy periods of weather, being spread by wind and water splashes. You can improve ventilation around the plant by giving it plenty of space. Avoid watering over the foliage too.
Hope it recovers for you.
All the best
Sue

Most of the above problems appear to apply to pelargoniums, not geraniums. I have an annual infestation on my Rozanne geranium which very quickly makes all the leaves on a large plant, approximately half metre spread, to look like lace because there are so many tiny holes. I have examined them for caterpillars but have never actually seen one, so could this be something else?

Hello
There are a few possible culprits such as slugs and snails, but the most likely candidate from your description is the larvae of Geranium sawfly. These little green caterpillars nibble small holes all over the foliage. They tend to hatch out in May/ June and again around September. If you see them then pick them off by hand and dispose of them – but you may need to turn to a pesticide to eradicate them completely.
All the best
Sue

My Geraniums are in pots on a balcony facing the sea (Med).Theywere flowering beautifully but the leaves suddenly started sticking together and looking like there i a cobweb and I saw one little green worm and also tiny black dots can you help please

Hello
There are lots of little larvae that will create webs on their host plants but most can be easily eliminated with a blast of pesticide. If you prefer then you could remove them by hand.
All the best
Sue

My geranium leaves and stems are covered in little white fuzzy dots. The plants are not looking healthy. This started at the beginning of summer and has gotten worse. Any idea what is causing this and the remedy? I took a picture but don’t know how to send it to you.

Hi Diana. It’s hard to make a guess without a photo. If you would like to send an image to [email protected] then I can take a look.
Best wishes
Sue

My Mrs. Pollock geranium has lost all it leaves and blooms.

Hi Kim
Oh dear – that doesn’t sound good. Has it had any obvious signs of pests or diseases? Or maybe its environment has somehow changed. Sudden defoliation is usually a sign of extreme plant stress. Take a close look and see if there are any clues as to what that might be.
Hope you get to the bottom of the problem
Best wishes
Sue

my geraniums boughtblossom so beautiful but now their leaves start to dry and curl up the stems also dry please advice the reason

Hallo. Its hard to say without seeing them. I would always suggest discounting any cultural issues first – such as insufficient/ too much water, adverse changes in temperature etc. Don’t be too disheartened if they don’t make it. Overwintering Pelargoniums can be a little tricky. Think of it as an opportunity to try some new varieties – there are so many to choose from!
Sue

what are the tiny dark bugs stuck all over my geranium stems?They already killed one whole plant and i see them now on another one.What are they and how do i get rid of them? please help me save my beautiful plants.

Hi Graham, unsure type of scented geranium, leaves appear to be getting half eaten, with Brown areas, and tiny areas of brownish thinning leaf, also new growth vanishes leaving just stump of stem. No creatures to be seen, roots are white but seem a bit sparse for plant size. Any ideas please?

Greetings, I seem to have a different problem with my geraniums. They are planted in the ground with tan bark around them. The leaves are very crinkly and deformed. Otherwise they flower well. They have had caterpillers but I believe I have sorted that problem out. Could it be the tan bark?

Hi Valerie
Its hard to say without seeing them. It could be a plant response to a virus, or pest damage. Fluctuations in temperature can often cause leaf deformities too. Glad to hear they are flowering well though!
All the best
Sue

What causes enlarged white growth on flower stems?? Young plants….thanks

Hi Kathy – its hard to say without seeing it but I’d guess that it may be some kind of fungal infection perhaps. Young plants can be susceptible to this, particularly if over-watered. Allow the compost to dry out slightly in between waterings to help reduce the risk.
All the best
Sue

Can you tell me what it is that causes a dramatic shortening of stem growth between leaf nodes? Some deficiency perhaps? The Internode length has reduced from inches to millimetres. On some, the nodes are so tightly packed that it is dwarfing the leaves. They seem otherwise ok, in fact they are flowering at an almost shocking rate, but I’d be happier if they’d put that effort into their foliage instead.

Potassium deficiency can cause this in Geraniums resulting in a dwarfed appearance. It also often causes the leaves to curl downwards at the edges. The heavy flowering that you describe is often the result of plant stress. It sounds as though your plant is definitely in need of a little help. Try applying a dose of High Potash fertiliser https://www.thompson-morgan.com/p/chempakreg-high-potash-feed-formula-4/kww2324TM.
You might also want to review the growing conditions. Does it need repotting? If it is extremely potbound then this will also create drought conditions for the plant which can cause growth dificulties, particularly if they are growing in hot, direct sun.
Hope that helps.
All the best
Sue

My usual tactic with our geraniums–they winter in the garage and get scant watering from October through April and do fine. We are in souther RI. We have one large geranium in a pot that wintered and bloomed in my office this year. In early May we put it on the front porch where got about 3-4 hours of sun and it seemed to be flourishing but stopped flowering. Two weeks ago we moved it to a spot where it got about 6 hours of sun. Now the leaves are going limp a few hours after being watered. My husband has been giving it water 2X a day. He says it seems to pick up after it is watered. I have checked for mold, critters, discoloration and have found nothing. I don’t know if it’s over-watered, needs a larger pot or has something else going on. Thanks for your thoughts.

Hi, i have red geraniums potted in big planters in our front porch where they are in sgade till 2:00 pm and after that receive direct sunlight till 8:00 pm…they are flowering extremely well with big clusters of flowers…but recently i noticed that half of the flower clusters looks water soaked. Newly grown are okay but as they age 4-5 days old they develope a water soaked appreance…Is it a kind of dieases or am i overwatering? I water them twice..morning and evening.Please advice.

hi i have a small slug at base of plants that seems to slowly killing them
what can i do to get rid of them please

Hi Thelma
there are a number of both chemical and organic slug pellets available that will kill off these unwanted plant pests. Alternatively, put sharp grit around the base of your plants, or crushed eggshells work well too!
I hope this works well

I also have geraniums that are forming flower buds that then come to nothing. It looks remarkably like the problems I had with geranium moth when living in the south of France. Does the moth exist here and could that be the problem?

The flower buds are forming on my geraniums then going brown and dry and not opening at all.

Hi Sue
Sorry to hear of you problems. is it possible that the plants are suffering from a potassium deficiency that might cause the plant to get rid of the buds as they haven’t got the energy to carry them through to fruition?
Try giving them some tomato feed and see if that helps, also allow the plants to dry out before you water them again, if it’s a bit too moist then the flower stems might suffer too.
I hope this helps
All the best
Graham

I’ve have been cultivating one particular Geranium for about 5-6 years, it has always been healthy until now. I recently moved all the plants that I winter indoors back outside, some I repotted into bigger pots but this plant is in a relatively big pot so I left it. All the other plants are happily growing although not necessarily flowering but my prized Geranium is not happy. I have just taken it out of its pot to find several small white grubs (about 5-7mm long) between 2=5 cm down in the compost. I’ve emptied the pot and left the root ball open to the air, thinking of taking all the compost off the roots to repot it.

Hi Julian,
I’d definitely clean off as much compost as possible and re-pot in fresh. The grubs were probably attacking the roots and doing countless damage. Your plant will not be happy for a little while but keep at it – don’t be tempted to over-water it though! Best of luck with it all.
Cheers
Graham

I have geraniums that I winter in my sunroom over the winter. Some of them are 12+ years old and have been doing great. I put them outside a few days ago and after the first night outside, I noticed that some of the leaves have turned white and curled up. Since they are so heavy to move back inside, I covered then with a tarp at night and then have taken the tarp off during the day. The nights here on Cape Cod have dropped into the 40’s with the day’s reaching mid to high 60’s to low 70’s. Is this a case of putting them out too early? Yikes!

Hi Jan,
it does sound like it, but they’re usually fairly tough so keep them protected as you are and they will recover, I’m sure!
All the best
Graham

Hello,
I have geranium that I have in my kitchen. They have not been outside in two years. They are doing very well, they keep blooming. I noticed, today, on one of the plants (I have 4 Geranium) that there was a red dot, it looked like a tiny bug of some kind, on the leaves. I thought it was odd since, like I said, these plants have been inside for two years. The other plants I have around it are aloe vera and two African Violets all indoor plants. What could the red thing be?

Hi Linda,
it sounds like it could be Red Spider Mite, they do tend to like plants in greenhouses and indoors too, remove the leaves affected and throw them in the outside bin!
I hope this helps
Graham

I have milky white spots. When you touch the spot on the leaf it turns into a hole. No sign of insects ??

Hi Betty,
it sounds like some kind of fungal problem, a bit of early rust or similar, give the plants a feed to boost them up , remove the leaves with the infection and possibly even try a weak fungicide on them and see what happens – I hope it all turns out well!
All the best
Graham

I have a number of geraniums in pots. They are watered three times a week for ten minutes, by automatic reticulation, as they are around my fruit trees. All develop a brownish, dead area on some leaves, about a third of the leaf, which eventually dies off. Many also eventually develop stems which are dried out and hollow. Apart from this, they flower well and their new growth is healthy! (They are clearly very forgiving of my ignorance in their care!) I am loathe to use chemical in my garden as I have frog breeding ponds. Thank you for your help.

Hi Lynnley,
to be honest, the sparse watering will not be a problem for the geraniums as they’ll happily tolerate dry conditions. I’d definitely suggest giving them a feed though, water on a feed that will soak into the leaves in the evening, so as to prevent sun scorch, any well balanced plant food will be fine for geraniums. Hopefully it will give the plants a bit more strength to grow even stronger!
I hope this helps
All the best
Graham

My indoor geraniums develop spots on the leaves which become holes filled with a l lacey interior which then become complete holes.
It starts in one leaf then spreads to others on the plant/s.
Any ideas please?

Hi John,
it sounds like you’ve got a leaf borer at work, try and remove any damaged leaves at the first sign of trouble. you can also use an insecticide, but please do do carefully – we still have to look after the beneficial insects!
All the best
Graham

I’m so my wit’s end with the tiny white grubs which are damaging my geraniums. Can you help. I’ve tried normal greenfly spray and vine weevil killer but still they are there. I thought the vine weevil stuff had done the trick but no! The grubs are tiny and crawling on surface of the compost.

Hi Liz,
I’m afraid the best course of action is to tip the plant out onto some newspaper, shake off all the compost and then gently wash the roots in some lukewarm water, to make sure there are no eggs stuck anywhere and then repot the geranium in brand new compost. Dispose of the compost with the grubs in by wrapping it up in the newspaper and putting it in the brown bin (if you have one) … don’t compost it yourself or throw it on the garden as you’ll only spread the problem too!
I hope this helps
All the best
Graham

Thanks. I as beginning to think that might be the only answer!

I have recently moved my geraniums indoors and have noticed that the window sill and window (where one leaf was in contact with the glass) has a film of tiny, pin-head sized black ‘blobs’. Some of the leaves are yellowing and are developing holes. Nothing seems to be moving but something seems to be devouring them and perhaps leaving ‘waste’ but I can’t see anything. They were beautifully healthy a short time ago and the flowers don’t seem to be affected, yet.

Hi Gill,
the yellowing could just be natural die back at this time of year as the plant is trying to enter into a dormant stage to have a rest. Where the leaf has come into contact with the glass sounds like a fungus has developed – I would remove all affected leaves and dispose of asap, to see if it slows down the problem. Keep an eye out for any die back on the stems too and cut them away into healthy areas with very clean and sharp secatueurs!
All the best
Graham

Hello
Why do some of my geraniums have very poor root systems

Hi David,
It’s quite possible that the plants put too much energy into producing top growth and not enough into looking after their root systems, phosphorus based feed would help them in that regard although the use of any balanced feed (20:20:20) will help too.
All the best
Graham

Hi,
I have potted up some geraniums and I am storing them in my conservatory,I keep the water to a minimum but I have noticed some little mushrooms growing in the soil.What is happening.?

Hi Joyce,
probably the combination of temperature and humidity (and the time of year) mean that it’s perfect for the mushrooms to grow. Remove them carefully – gloves and minimal disturbance to them – and dispose of them so that they can produce more spores and spread!
All the best
Graham

Something is eating the buds on one of my geraniums. I cannot see any insects. can you suggest any remedy?

Hi Gay,
it could be a small caterpillar that then hides under leaves and is very well camouflaged, have a close look and hopefully you’ll find the culprit!
All the best
Graham

I looked with magnifying glass and found no critters on undersides of leaves. I sprayed a couple times with soapy water and that seems to do the trick at least for now. maybe it discourages snails or earwigs. Who knows?

Cheers and thanks for your quick response.

My Geraniums are very healthy looking but as soon as a blossoms form they die. Have 15 3 in a pot and they are all doing the same. Can you advise me??

Hello
That sounds very frustrating! Pelargonium flowers do sometimes rot off and this is generally associated with growing conditions. They enjoy warm temperatures and soils which are damp but never cold and wet. I suspect that this may be part of the issue. We have had quite a cold spring and if they have had a little too much water then this might not suit them very well. Allow the compost to dry out slightly, especially while temperatures are still a cool. Snip off the failed flowers as this will encourage the plants to keep producing new blooms. I think that you will find that as the summer progresses then they will probably start flowering normally.
Hope this helps you
All the best
Sue

I have now found dozens of caterpillars under the leaves of my geraniums making holes. There are 2 sorts, one green, one black. I believe they come from Moths? Can you verify for me please?
Thank you
Heather

Hi Heather, it does sound like these could be the caterpillars of Winter Moths, pick them off(or the whole leaf that they’re on) and dispose of accordingly!
All the best
Graham

My geraniums have brown spots on the back of the leaves,they are flowering well.

All my geraniums are suddenly dying.After being very prolific ,now when I deadhead the top of plant,instead of being green with new shoots are now brown and dead looking.Inhave watered and fed regularly and the problem is all around my garden in around 20/30 pots.Any idea what has caused this?

Hi Roger,
we suspect that the plants have become over wet – possibly through the deluges we have had recently. Are the stalks wet and mushy? The only chance you have is to raise the pots to allow them to drain almost completely – leave the compost until it is barely damp, and them maintain that moisture level until the plants recover. Unfortunately, if the plants have been prolific up to now then there will be an awful lot of young, soft growth, which can be prone to bacterial stem-rot. I hope that they do recover, fingers crossed!
All the best
Graham

hi i have 3 hanging baskets with geraniums in 2 are ok but the other is getting decimated by something,eating all leaves an tops off the storks of flower, have checked 4 caterpillars but cant see any, did see an kill a little brown grub. do u think spraying with washing up liquid will help or can u advise on something else. cheers

Hi Boyce,
spraying with very very diluted soapy water might well help, failing that an insectacide, although please be careful when using as we don’t want to affect any other insects – It might pay to “quarantine” the plant for a short while while you treat it.

Hi
I live in Spain and have holes in the stems when i break open they are grubs inside. One plant in a pot has nearly been completely eaten. Now there are lots big fat grums left in the earth.

Hi Jan,
Borers can be a real nuisance on many plants unfortunately. The best way to get rid of them is to use a pesticide, obviously very carefully to avoid hurting beneficial insects. Keep an eye out for eggs on the undersides of leaves too, these can then be removes to help prevent further problems!
I hope this helps
Graham

How do i solve the problem of black bore holes in the stems of otherwise healthy geranium plants?

Hi Jane,
Borers can be a real nuisance on many plants unfortunately. The best way to get rid of them is to use a pesticide, obviously very carefully to avoid hurting beneficial insects. Keep an eye out for eggs on the undersides of leaves too, these can then be removes to help prevent further problems!
I hope this helps
Graham

Some of my geraniums accumulate a very small, black granular/tubular type of substance on the leaves. I notice it about every 2-3 days. I just flick the leaves and it fall/rolls off the leaves. These geraniums tended to having yellowish leaves when I got them and no matter how much you pick off the yellow leaves, they continue to turn yellow. What do you think is going on? Thank you,

Hi Pam,
the yellowing of the leaves sounds like the plants are lacking in nutrients slightly. I would suggest a fully balances liquid feed, with trace elements such as magnesium in it too, this will help the leafy growth to come back and also improve the colour too!
I hope this help
Graham

I recently purchased a Crocodile Ivy leaf geranium. I am continually having to cut the leaves off as they turn a tan/brown color. Wat veroorsaak dit?

Hi Donna,
is it possible that the plants are getting too much water? this is quite common with geraniums of all types. also a lack of nitrogen in the soil will cause poor leaf growth too. a balanced feed will help out in both cases.
All the best
Graham

I have a tiny caterpillar on the underside of leaves, it appears to have tine yellow mrkings, it is slowly eating my geranium and begonias I find them on the underside of leaves I am not sure how to deal with them, I have always shied away from insecticides because of the bees any advice please I am not sure what these are.

Hi Lucy, is there any chance you could send me a photograph of the offending caterpillar and we can take a look for you!? e-mail me direct at [email protected]
Baie dankie
Graham

I have several containers with Geraniums and all are thriving apart from one. Out if five plants in the container only one is thriving, two have completely disappeared! We had been away and this happened while we weren’t there. When I came to investigate I found that the tub has hundreds of what look like yellow ants or spiders. I have bought more plants but am nervous of planting them in case these insects eat them. I’m not a very experienced gardener so am at a loss. What is your advice? Thanks in anticipation

Hi Judith , is there any chance you could send me a photograph of the offending bugs and we can take a look for you!? e-mail me direct at [email protected]

My Geraniums have what looks like white powderlike areas on the top of the leaves. These areas wipe off easily. Any idea?

Hi Sharon, is it from evaporation of water, possibly with liquid feed in it? , leaving a residue on the leaves? It’s a common question we get here when plants are sent out as we often see marks on the leaves that will wipe off that are exactly that.
I hope this helps
Graham

When I break off the dead flowers, little dry “clouds” puff up from the geranium?! I’m afraid it might be some kind of mould that’s dried out and becomes airborne? The weather’s been wet but the geraniums are otherwise flourishing.

Hi Val, it’s probably the dust form the deaf lowers, or old pollen etc, as long as the leaves etc on the leaves look healthy then it’s probably nothing to worry about.
I hope this helps
Graham

Why are my plants going purple on my balcony? Geraniums money plant

Hi Christine, this will be because the cooler temperatures at night are meaning that the plants are not yet fully active and suffering a lit bit from phosphorus deficiency as a result of that. When we get more constant temperatures, the plants will perk up, give them a fully balanced feed for now to help them along.
I hope this helps

I have white like spots on the tops of the leaves.cannot see any black fly or green fly.what could it be.have just planted them out into runs.

Hi Susan, are they on the leaves (so that they wipe off) or are they actual blemishes in the leaves themselves?

I have something similar to this I think. It’s as if the top layer of the leaf has been removed, and sometimes underneath too so that it looks like a bit of nearly transparent leaf. Then the leaf gradually curls and goes soft and dies. At first I thought it was spots where they had been watered and been burned through the conservatory glass but now I don’t think so.
I’d like help too please.

It sounds like you might have a tiny bug called a “leaf miner” there Ann, they burrow into the leave and actually eat the flesh of it between the top and bottom layer, making the leaf look transparent, which eventually dies, try a general purpose bug spray, or keep an eye out for early signs and pick the little blighters off!

Thank you for your prompt reply. I have been picking off the diseased leaves and shall watch out for new infections and hopefully get rid of them – before there are no leaves left!


Yellow leaves on geraniums

The bottom leaves on my geraniums begin to wilt and then turn yellow and then die. Why is this happening? I only water when the soil dries out and fertilizer once a week. I pinch off the leaves and other leaf develops the same symptoms. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Yellowing leaves are often a sign of a watering issue. There are other possibilities, but watering problems is one of the more common ones so I would always start by ruling that out first.

My guess is too much water--when you say you only water when the soil dries out, are you just looking at the surface of the soil? The surface will dry out fairly quickly, but if you stick your finger an inch or so into the soil you'll probably find it's still quite wet. You need to wait until it's drying out a couple inches down before you water again, otherwise the roots are staying a lot wetter than they want to be. Also if your pot doesn't have a drainage hole, or if you have it in a saucer and let water sit in the saucer after you've watered those can contribute to overwatering as well.

Underwatering also has similar symptoms, although many more people kill their plants with too much water, that's why I suggested it first. But if your plant is a bit too big for the pot it's in, then there might not be enough soil to hold water so it may be spending most of its time too dry.

One other possibility would be too much fertilizer, once a week could be fine or it could be too much, depends on what the package directions are. My guess is if you're using it at the max concentration that's probably a bit much, but if you're diluting it a lot then it may be fine. However, over time fertilizer salts and other salts from hard water, etc can build up in the soil, so if it's been a while since you changed your potting mix that's also possible. Especially if you water by "topping it off" rather than by letting a lot of water flush through the pot, that can make the salts build up faster.

Hopefully that gives you a few places to start. It would also help if you could post a picture, preferably one that shows the wilting/yellowing leaves as well as giving us a sense of the size of the plant relative to the pot.

Just realized that I'd jumped to a conclusion that you had these in a pot. if they're planted in the ground then I still think it's probably a watering issue, but obviously some of the things I said about pots and saucers, etc would not be relevant.

What specific type of geraniums are you talking about ?

I agree with Ecrane as far as the watering and fertilising goes, the problem may be that you are also allowing water to get onto the foliage and this causes them to go yellow and die off, these plants normally like baked sunlight and the soil to get quite dry before they need watering again, also IF as Ecrane has suggested and they are in pots, have you got a saucer under the pot where the pot then sits in water for long periods as the compost will act like a sponge and stay wet for ages too, good tip also from her is about the compost, has it been renewed before planting as these plants will need new compost every year as the roots will deplete any nutrients that were in the compost after a year of growing. hope all this helps but as Jasperdale has said too, let us know which kind of geraniums are you growing as there are so many, then we could help you further,
good luck. WeeNel.


Kyk die video: Basic Pelargonium Re Pot September 2020


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